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Kansas does have bouldering!

(New updates are listed by day so scroll down for the latest additions)

Does Kansas have any bouldering? The answer is yes except it just has not been fully discovered and developed yet. The locations are not obvious. They are not well known. They are not in the most visible or accessible areas. One will have to be willing to explore and paw through tons of choss, but if you are motivated and looking hard enough, you may find an area with good potential. These boulders and routes are not going to find themselves! A random conversation a few weeks back about another potential bouldering spot in Kansas led to me taking a day trip east of Wichita about 1 1/2 hours. This location has been visited before by climbers but nothing has been documented  in such a way that put this location on the map. At the present time until some more logistics have been sorted out lets just say there is very good potential for more bouldering routes and first ascents in this area.  Specifics on location will be linked here when we are done as well as Mountain Project. It is currently about to get a swarm of development this weekend by some motivated boulderers. So, when more progress is made, more details will be posted and updated. Last week when  I went out to check out the area I was able to clean and develop 5-6 routes ranging from V2-V5. Here are just a  couple videos from that trip.

Blue: Wanna Be Hueco V3 FA Jason Kruse, Yellow: Redbud V2 FA Jason Kruse, NEW!! Red: Wink Wink V4 FA Jason Kruse (Far East)

https://vimeo.com/194552622   https://vimeo.com/194554121

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Yellow: Slabby Trails V4 FA: Jason Kruse. Blue: Edgy Ledgy V2 FA: Jason Kruse (The Lobby)

 

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Yellow: High Deductable V4 FA: Jason Kruse. Blue: Salida a la derecha V3: FA Jason Kruse (The Lobby)

 

Unamed. Lobby Boulders

 

Bum ba Dida V3.  FA Jason Kruse. Lobby Boulders

 

“Shorty Talls” v2 exit right. FA Christopher Edwards. Lobby Boulders

 

Runnel of Love v2/3. FA Christopher Edwards. Between Lobby and Far East

2/6/2017 Route Development Fall River

So Christopher and I decided to head out again to develop some more bouldering problems at the Fall River Boulders. I had to stock back up on wire brushes and brooms from Harbor Freight because they are not lasting more than one or two sessions with as much organic material that grows on this stuff out here. In the attempt to provide succinct information on the area that we developing I am going to use obvious landmarks such as the water treatment lagoons, Fall River proper as well as the big bend in the river, the washed out bridges, the large field, the stagnant water pond and various rock formations and graffiti to describe the location of the boulders. Most of the routes so far are located across from a large field and river on the left as a reference standpoint. There are two large clearings surrounded by rock walls located on the right side of the trail. Both of these clearings are past the very last washed out bridge and stagnant pond. This white boulder below is in that first clearing and is easily identified as it stands out among the other rocks formations. The second clearing is very similar but it has several unique green mossy boulders that also stand out amongst the other rock formations. I will say this a disclaimer though, there are no leaves in the winter our visibility is much easier now than it will be in the spring and summer.

In the First clearing to the right, shortly after you pass a washed out bridge and stagnant water on the right side you will find this boulder sitting high up on the very back hill to the right. It is noticeably white from the lichen. “Jessica Alba” boulder

Starting right to left:

  • “Loosin up” probably hard V1. FA Christopher Edwards. Sit down start moving up the arete
  • “Two Pocket Shakur”. FA Jason Kruse V2. Starts with left hand in nice positive pocket up to right smaller pocket
  • “The Pinchy Way”. FA Jason Kruse V4. Starts with feet on lower ledge and right hand in positive pocket. Moves up to small crimps to a two pocketed pinch. A few balancy moves straight up to the top out
  • “Love Letter” Red. FA Jason Kruse V5.  Starts the same as “The Pinchy Way” but traverses out left along horizontal crack with poor feet and then up for the top out.

https://youtu.be/bolbxOSY3RM The images below are two projects that we started cleaning up on the way out.  They will go the next trip without a doubt but hey just need a thorough cleaning. These two slabby rocks are located next to one another and are on the north side of the trail. They are located on the first section of the trail about 10 minutes in. They located just 3 feet off the trail to the right. The left route exits to the left with a reasonable downclimb.                   This route below is located along the back wall of the Second clearing. This is where the Green boulders are located.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another day at the office! 12/11/2016

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Jason Kruse

 

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Martin Osborn

 

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Thane Symens

 

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Christoper Edwards

 

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Grant Williams

Brady’s Come Back V3 , Battleship Boulder, (Second Clearing)

Brady’s Comeback, Battleship Boulder, Second Clearing

  • Standing start that follows the featured rock to the top out. Be careful up top as you exit left to the large tree.

This is the furthest left of the Green Boulders in the Second clearing. The shiny top is patina.

Yellow: Funky Cold Patina V5 FA: Jason Kruse

Yellow: Funky Cold Patina V5 FA: Jason Kruse Green Boulder, (Second Clearing)

The route below is located in the Second Clearing along the back wall. It is currently unnamed. This route has 2 potential connectors including the roof below and a traverse that start to the right in the large two handed pocket (not seen in picture). They have been cleaned but unsent. Probably in the V6-V7 range.

Yellow: Unamed, Ungraded, FA Thane Symens

Yellow: Just Another Brothel V4, FA Thane Symens (Field Boulders)

This boulder up to this point is the furthest boulder of the area. It is located about 50 yards past the Lobby and to the right. (FAR EAST)

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NEW: Red: Wink Wink V4 FA: Jason Kruse (Far East)

Christopher Edwards put together a short video of our last development trip out there which highlights Wink Wink V4 and some of the area that we were developing. Video: Christopher Edwards https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObrV6KbLxOU&feature=youtu.be

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Christopher Edwards on a coffee break!

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Christopher Edwards on Just Another Brothel V4

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Jason Kruse on Just Another Brothel V4

 

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Project. Name option: Vulcan Skull Fuck (above) Located between the Lobby and Far East

 

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Grant Williams on Wanna Be Hueco V3 (Far East)

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Christopher Edwards on Wanna Be Hueco V3 (Far East)

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Martin Osborn on Wink Wink V4 (Far East)

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Thane Symens on Wink Wink V4 (Far East)

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Project.  Located between Lobby and Far East

 

2/26/2017 Development Day

The 4 routes below are located near the “Jessica Alba” boulder.

“Killer Larva” v2/3 FA Chris Edwards

Green is unnamed/ungraded FA Christopher Wurzer

Pink is “Higher Expectations” FA Thane Symens V2

3/6/2017 Fall River Development

 

Christopher Edwards and I taking turns as we work through the beta of our latest project. This route is in the Big Bend Section. It is the most forward prominence of this band of  sandstone. It’s an amazing low, right to left traverse that finishes out at strong as it started. I am eager to stitch the ending in to the very sustain beginning and middle section.

During yesterdays route development Christopher Edwards​ pulled out the 1.4 to get some shots of me working #theproj on the Big Bend boulders. Not only do you have to be strong in the beginning but you have to be stronger on the finish move. I absolutely love this route and can’t wait to send it clean. Here is Chris in his glory sending our project from our last trip. Jessica Alba’s “Love Letters” V5+ #bouldering #kansasbouldering #kansasroutedevelopment Jason Kruse​

Taking a rest between thrashings on the new project on the Big Bend boulders

Latest Project starts standing with the large pocket above and to the right of the chalk and pad. The route traverses left with a finish after reaching the horizontal ledge to the far left. Topping out too far above is probably not safe.

Taking a rest between thrashing on the new proj

Christopher Edwards will not be denied his “Love Letters”. This project is no longer.

Big Bend boulders Project

3/20/2017 Fall River Bouldering Development

On the first day of spring Monte Graham and myself ventured out to the new development area to do several things. He had and interest in seeing the routes we have put up out here, and also  wanted  to see the quality of lines that we have been professing about so much. He was geared up to clean and develop some routes today. He had been out to this spot in the past but mainly for the rope climbing that is possesses,,, in abundance I  must say.

Monte is pretty diverse in his disciplines so when he started gravitating towards cracks and highballs I just stepped to the side and let him do his thing.  He cleaned up a few lines and worked then but also left a few cool projects for the next time.

I was eager to get him on one of my very first routes I cleaned out there. I quickly had to orphan because it was just too hard for me to piece together. It was about time this thing got sent. We both worked it together trying various beta but it in the end Monte came up with the big move that put him in position for the finish. He was fine to let the tentative route name carry on despite its abrasiveness. The “Vulcan Skull F****” is officially off the project list now. By its name you will understand the starting hold and the finish become painfully obvious if your burly enough to get to the top.

Vulcan Skull Fuck V5: FA Monte Graham

A quick visit to the Far East boulder revealed some hidden potential to the right of it. Covered in moss was relatively short looking boulder with some horizontal rails that seem to beg to be cleaned up. We ended up with 2 solid routes and maybe an additional version and then 2 others just to the right.

Red: Block Talk V4+. FA Monte Graham

Yellow: Block Talk V4+

Red: Small Talk V2: FA Monte Graham

Teal: Spring Break V1: FA Jason Kruse

I wanted Monte to get on another route I put up on my first trip out  called “High Deductable” V4,  cause I wanted to see how he worked through the topout. I feel vindicated cause he had to work it a bit:-) (Left slab with roof top out in the Lobby).

After we were warmed up we decided to split up a bit and really look for some lines we wanted to work on. We worked in the Field Boulders region. (with the big green boulders).  He cleaned up a cool Kansas highball that traverses left to right and meets up with a sweet right sidepull that travels up to a top out. This project will stay open for a bit.

I wasted 30 minutes cleaning up a line just to the left of “Brady’s Come Back”. Decided to abandon it when I turned around and saw a sweet line on a boulder just behind me. It’s a cool sit down start with on off cambor feel and strong top out.

Hindsight V4: FA Jason Kruse

Yellow: Hindsight V4. FA Jason Kruse

This area that we hunkered down in for the remainder of the day and developed is called the Field Boulders cause it sits directly across from the field to the north. From the trail looking back you can see the 2 large boulders near the base of the cliff.

Monte found a gem of a project that I have walked by several times and flat out never saw. It is located in one of the coolest coridors within the back wall of the Field boulders.

Project

One of the Green Boulders has this amazing rock feature and character that begged to be cleaned up so I did. Then I couldn’t send it. The crux move will be a V6 or higher. Good luck to whoever tries to tackle it.

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Monte got all serious when he spotted his cool boulder and had to put the brush to it. He was cleaning it for a while while I went ahead and officially sent the slab dihedral route that we have all been looking at for months. Caution: the downclimb, or uncontrolled slide down is sketchy so make sure you have pads to catch you. I probably owe Monte a beer for a proper last second pad placement.

Schlitterbahn V3: FA Jason Kruse

Red: Schlitterbahn V3: FA Jason Kruse

Directly south is a large dark boulder with a pointed peak that held several fun compression’y moves. The project with the ribbed features sits on the north facing part of the boulder.

Bad Prom Date V4: FA Jason Kruse

Yellow two hand start (above): Bad Prom Date V4: FA Jason Kruse

 

Heel Spurs V3: FA Jason Kruse

Yellow: Heel Spurs: FA Jason Kruse

Unmarked: Far right starts on the the right leaning shelf. Bad feet. Tops out on the point. Thank god Monte sent it. The nasty beta I was using was just embarrassing. You can have it:-)

All the while in the background, which you can see to the right of this boulder (above), Monte was cleaning up what would be the stoutest V6 route of the day. It is the lighter boulder with the scattered white lichen. With a few solid attempts he bagged this V6- FA.

The Fix V6-: FA Monte Graham

Yellow: The Fix V6-: FA Monte Graham