Fall River Bouldering Development Project: 4/10/2017

Mother nature was kind to us and chose not to rain on us for this trip. We have had a few trips out here when we had rain several days before and even small showers the night before. Knowing that the sandstone is weaker when wet and experiencing some breakage that seemed water related we are making great efforts to not  develop within a several days of any rain. This is something that everyone needs to abide by when this location becomes open. The routes can be destroyed too easily. So please honor this ethic. Also, pack in/pack out should be everyone’s policy. Do not leave a trace of our presence except for acts of stewardship. Pick up all of your tape, trash, water bottles and if you see trash that is not yours please take it out with you when you leave.  We are cleaning landing zones and pruning back some branches only where necessary. This is a beautiful area so let’s keep it that way. Over the years climbing areas have been closed down or restricted due to misuse so let’s hit the ground running by always being vigilant of protecting this area simultaneously as we use it.

Now, on to new business… Chris and I made it back out this last Monday with a full agenda of collecting some footage, cleaning up a few landing areas, explore a new area that had caught our eye a couple trips ago, and develop a few more routes.  As always we start a little scattered brained but quickly got focused and got a lot of work done. Check out the video by Chris Edwards below.

We focused most of our efforts on the Big Bend area and just to the left of the Jessica Alba boulder. I think for descriptive purposes we will refer to this area as the Crack Corner.  This area includes a couple dihedral cracks and a blunt arete between them. The larger crack dihedral has a dead end topout that we are not sure how to make it a bouldering route but there are a few previously placed bolts that appears to be protected for lead climbing if you so chose.

We started out with some landscape footage, since the last time we were there it had started to green up and a few redbuds even had bloomed. We took a few minutes to really plot out our day so we could start improving our efficiency out there. Instinctually we seem to act like its Xmas morning, but we had work to do and we came to get er done. After a few Songbird juices and doing a new shotgun mic test we hauled all of our gear down the trail (LOL) to our destination.

Songbird Juice Co.

Check out the video below (by Jason Kruse)

This is the first April that we have been in this area so I have to say it’s really turning into one of the most attractive areas I’ve seen. There is a nearby river rolling by,  a long trail with tree canopy that is now greening up, and red buds in the distance blooming. The grass is green and the moss is greener.


Below is first section of the Crack House. Chris Edwards is getting his FA on “Protect Ya Neck” V3+ (Yellow Route)

Chris Edwards on Protect Ya Neck V3+

Blue Route: Serious Business V3 FA: Jason Kruse

Yellow Route: Protect Ya Neck V3+ FA: Christopher Edwards

Red Route: Crack Head V3+ FA: Jason Kruse

Green Route:  Goodbye Tarmac V4:  FA: Jason Kruse

Route: not shown. To the left of the Serious Business is low sit down start called: All Flights Delayed V3: FA Jason Kruse

**all of these routes have bold top outs and cautious down climbs so be mindful. Pad up!!!

Chris Edwards on Serious Business V3

Goodbye Tarmac V4 (green)


Crack Head V3 (red)


Cautionary note: It’s April so spray for ticks and when you get home do a tick check.