2/6/2017 Route Development Fall River

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So Christopher and I decided to head out again to develop some more bouldering problems at the Fall River Boulders. I had to stock back up on wire brushes and brooms from Harbor Freight because they are not lasting more than one or two sessions with as much organic material that grows on this stuff out here. In the attempt to provide succinct information on the area that we developing I am going to use obvious landmarks such as the water treatment lagoons, Fall River proper as well as the big bend in the river, the washed out bridges, the large field, the stagnant water pond and various rock formations and graffiti to describe the location of the boulders. Most of the routes so far are located across from a large field and river on the left as a reference standpoint. There are two large clearings surrounded by rock walls located on the right side of the trail. Both of these clearings are past the very last washed out bridge and stagnant pond. This white boulder below is in that first clearing and is easily identified as it stands out among the other rocks formations. The second clearing is very similar but it has several unique green mossy boulders that also stand out amongst the other rock formations. I will say this a disclaimer though, there are no leaves in the winter our visibility is much easier now than it will be in the spring and summer.

In the First clearing to the right, shortly after you pass a washed out bridge and stagnant water on the right side you will find this boulder sitting high up on the very back hill to the right. It is noticeably white from the lichen. “Jessica Alba” boulder

Starting right to left:

  • “Loosin up” probably hard V1. FA Christopher Edwards. Sit down start moving up the arete
  • “Two Pocket Shakur”. FA Jason Kruse V2. Starts with left hand in nice positive pocket up to right smaller pocket
  • “The Pinchy Way”. FA Jason Kruse V4. Starts with feet on lower ledge and right hand in positive pocket. Moves up to small crimps to a two pocketed pinch. A few balancy moves straight up to the top out
  • “Love Letter” Red. FA Jason Kruse V5.  Starts the same as “The Pinchy Way” but traverses out left along horizontal crack with poor feet and then up for the top out.

https://youtu.be/bolbxOSY3RM The images below are two projects that we started cleaning up on the way out.  They will go the next trip without a doubt but hey just need a thorough cleaning. These two slabby rocks are located next to one another and are on the north side of the trail. They are located on the first section of the trail about 10 minutes in. They located just 3 feet off the trail to the right. The left route exits to the left with a reasonable downclimb.                   This route below is located along the back wall of the Second clearing. This is where the Green boulders are located.

Brady’s Come Back V3 , Battleship Boulder, (Second Clearing)

Brady’s Comeback, Battleship Boulder, Second Clearing

  • Standing start that follows the featured rock to the top out. Be careful up top as you exit left to the large tree.

This is the furthest left of the Green Boulders in the Second clearing. The shiny top is patina.

Yellow: Funky Cold Patina V5 FA: Jason Kruse

Yellow: Funky Cold Patina V5 FA: Jason Kruse Green Boulder, (Second Clearing)

The route below is located in the Second Clearing along the back wall. It is currently unnamed. This route has 2 potential connectors including the roof below and a traverse that start to the right in the large two handed pocket (not seen in picture). They have been cleaned but unsent. Probably in the V6-V7 range.

Yellow: Unamed, Ungraded, FA Thane Symens

Yellow: Just Another Brothel V4, FA Thane Symens (Field Boulders)

This boulder up to this point is the furthest boulder of the area. It is located about 50 yards past the Lobby and to the right. (FAR EAST)


NEW: Red: Wink Wink V4 FA: Jason Kruse (Far East)

Christopher Edwards put together a short video of our last development trip out there which highlights Wink Wink V4 and some of the area that we were developing. Video: Christopher Edwards https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObrV6KbLxOU&feature=youtu.be


Christopher Edwards on a coffee break!



Christopher Edwards on Just Another Brothel V4


Jason Kruse on Just Another Brothel V4


Project. Name option: Vulcan Skull Fuck (above) Located between the Lobby and Far East


Grant Williams on Wanna Be Hueco V3 (Far East)


Christopher Edwards on Wanna Be Hueco V3 (Far East)


Martin Osborn on Wink Wink V4 (Far East)


Thane Symens on Wink Wink V4 (Far East)


Project.  Located between Lobby and Far East